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Discovering Boca de Tomatlan...

Every so often there's an adventure so close to Manzanillo that you have to try it out. One of the things that is so enjoyable about living here is that there are so many fun experiences within bussing or driving distance. There is a small Mexican fishing village that's only 3 hours away from Manzanillo, but when you go there, you'll think you've gone back to life as it was in another century.

Time seems to stand still there, even though modern Puerto Vallarta is only 30 minutes away. This 400-year-old fishing village, Boca de Tomatlan, remains virtually unchanged, although it's on the coastal highway. 

"Boca" means mouth in Spanish, and the River Tomatlan meets the Pacific Ocean at this village, so our adventure started "where the mouth of the river meets the sea." Due to heavy seasonal rains, the river was muddy and wide. During the dry winter months, the river water is crystal clear, and families can be seen bathing and washing their laundry up river.

We were fortunate to have one of the best guides in the area, Agustin Bas, an Argentinean, who lives and operates a tour company out of Boca, Tango Tours. Agustin also rents Casa Tango to tourists (like us) who are looking for a real adventure. 

Our journey began when we reached the Cafe Primitivo, where we contacted Agustin to let him know we had arrived. We had an excellent meal there, and enjoyed the unique surroundings, such as bar stools made of tree stumps, and hand carved stick chairs. The view from the restaurant was spectacular, and it had just started to lightly rain.

Rain is a good thing, especially when you're in a tropical rain forest, but by the time we got into Agustin's boat, which was to take us to Casa Tango, we felt that Mother Nature had it in for us. The light drizzle became a heavy downpour, and the four of us looked like drowned rats! Sorry that there's no photos, but, with the torrential rain, I would have had to use an underwater camera!

Fortunately, Casa Tango had hot showers, hot coffee, cold beer, and Mexican moonshine (Puerto Vallarta's famous raicilla) to ward off the chill. We wasted no time getting dry and taking a sip...or nip (hic)...whatever! Casa Tango has two bedrooms, 2 lofts, and a day bed and can sleep up to 8, but there were only three of us, plus Agustin, 2 cats, a military macaw named Coco Loco, Agustin's dog Aggi, and my dog Sunny. What a menagerie, but a great one!

Discovering Scuba Diving...

The next morning was sunny and bright, and we decided to go scuba diving at Majahuitas, a rocky wall that goes well past 150 ft. This location offers divers a rare view of black coral, which is actually green when the animal is alive.

After an exhilarating dive to 84 feet, where we saw several species of coral and fish that aren't common to Manzanillo, we decided to explore and play "tourist." It was hard to leave the wonderful diving, but we were ready for another adventure.

Exploring new places...

Agustin took us to a local village that can only be reached by boat. Las Animas, which means "The Spirits" in Spanish, is so named because it was the site of a pirate massacre more than 450 years ago. It is said that at night, you can still hear the screams of their victims, and the rattling of the chains of the prisoners. Scary story, huh?

All was quiet during the day, though, and we enjoyed a fantastic lunch on the beach, and went swimming in the calm, clear waters. The afternoon passed all too quickly, and it was time to return to Casa Tango, where we enjoyed a beautiful sunset from the second floor balcony.

There's no terrace complete without a hammock to lounge in, especially when you're being served fine Baja California wine.  The good-sized refrigerator kept our food and beverages cold, and the fully equipped kitchen assured we'd never go hungry, if we chose to cook. 

We preferred to eat out, but our host told us, if we wanted to fish, he'd clean and prepare our freshly-caught "chicken-of-the-sea" for us. That day on the boat, our captain caught a nice-sized tuna, but we gave it to him for his family.

Preparing for the evening rain which was sure to come, Annie, Jerry, Agustin and I put on bathing suits. You see, there are 2 ways to get to Casa Tango, by boat, or wading across the Rio Tomatlan. There is a bridge, but it's a much longer walk.  We packed our dinner clothes in a duffle bag, waded across the river, then changed in the van parked on the other side. The boys held up the towel, blocking off the view to the back seat, while Annie and I changed. Then we switched places. It's a new way to go to dinner, but even eating is an adventure with Agustin!

Going out on the town...

Agustin drove us into town and we had a fantastic dinner at Archie's Wok in the old town section of Puerto Vallarta. Archie died a few years ago, and the restaurant is now run by his wife Cindy and his daughter Keoke. Archie was the chef for John Houston before he opened his own restaurant.

Once back in Boca, Agustin "borrowed" a dingy and towed us across the river so we could stay dry. This method of getting to town and back isn't at all unusual for the locals, who come from neighboring villages by boat. The ladies get into the panga, a fiberglass fishing boat, carrying a plastic bag with their panty hose and shoes. Once ashore on the other side, they wipe the sand off, put on their hose and shoes and head to town on the bus. If you live in a small village where all the fellas are related to you, how else do you find a husband?

Another day of adventure...

Once again the next day was bright and clear, and we did another dive, this time at Devil's Canyon at Los Arcos. We went to 103 feet, and saw more black coral, along with several other species of coral that only grows in Devil's Canyon. It's a fascinating place to dive because you swim along a shelf at about 80 feet, then literally "fall off" the edge into a deep underwater canyon.

Following our dive, we went to Quimixto and had lunch, I hiked to the falls with Agustin, while Jerry and Annie took horses. At the waterfalls, there's a restaurant that serves seafood and a special type of fresh water lobster called "langostino." All food, ice, beer, and other supplies are brought up to this restaurant by burro, on the same narrow trail we walked up. 

The only way you can get to Quimixto is by boat, so all supplies brought in to this small village of 100 people arrive the same way. When we finally reached the falls (it's about a 20 minute hike or horse ride), we were the only ones there. That sure was a pleasant surprise. Annie and Jerry took advantage of it by posing in front of the falls. At this time of year, the falls are a little muddy, but during winter season, the water is clear and there's a pool below you can swim in.

Fortunately, we arrived before the mad rush of people got there from the Puerto Vallarta "cattle boats." It was nice to have our own private boat, guide and time schedule and not be part of the Vallarta "herd."

That evening, with Agustin's recommendation, we went into town and ate at an unbelievable restaurant called Brazil. The atmosphere is jungle-like, and since we were staying in the jungle, we continued the experience. You won't have to worry about roughing it in this restaurant, however. For only $12 per person, they bring out plate after plate of appetizers, pasta and fruit salads, vegetables, and skewers of turkey, ribs, sausage, chicken, rib eye, New York steak, sirloin and filet mignon. They even gave us a doggy bag for Agustin's animals, and my dog, too!

Returning to Casa Tango, we found that the power was out throughout Boca de Tomatlan (a common occurrence). We lighted a few dozen candles, and enjoyed some wine by candlelight. Sometimes it's the simple things. The animals gorged themselves on prime cuisine, and we retired early, ready to do some actual business in Puerto Vallarta the next day.

Talk to the animals...

Casa Tango is perched on a rise, and has a spectacular view, and the hiking trail goes past several other similarly-styled homes. It's so quiet at night that you think you've lost your hearing. Well, sometimes there's frogs!  Crickets, too, but those sounds are peaceful and soothing. You'll be guaranteed to get a good night's sleep.

When you arrive home from one of Agustin's tours, occasionally you'll hear Coco Loco complaining that she wants out of her cage. Agustin has had her from birth, and she playfully rolls over, and enjoys being tickled. She does other tricks, too, so make sure to ask your host if you can meet his female feathered friend.

At sundown, walk out to the dock, and take a look. You'll see dozens of wharf crabs, and a most unusual sight--sea urchins that actually come out of the sea! Too cool! It's also great to "sit on the dock of the bay" and read a good book, but remember to bring your mosquito repellent.

Aggi and my dog Sunny made a good pair, and went everywhere with us, including on the boat, and downtown to Puerto Vallarta. When we returned to Casa Tango, the cats were waiting at the dock, and Coco Loco was scolding us for going away.

This may not be an adventure for everyone, but if you're looking for a different kind of vacation, and enough stories to amuse your friends for hours, be sure and make contact with Agustin Bas at Casa Tango.

For more information Pick up the phone and call Marjorie & Agustin Telephone: 001 52 (322) 224-7398 or Email us : vallarta@casatango.com